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running commentary

The internet is filled with things. Here are some of them.

#california

2024

The bloodiest Western gunfight you’ve never heard of 2024 Nov 13
In 1880 California the railroads (led by among others Leland Stanford) squared off against a group of former Confederate soldiers now squatting on speculated land in a place called Mussel Slough, in the southern Central Valley. When the conflict spilled over into violence, it resulted in a gunfight leaving 7 dead immediately. The incident's infamy was felt far and wide though, by those as far away as Karl Marx in London, with many siding with one interest or the other for their own ideological or political reasons. This linked well-researched 2015 blog post by historian Adam Smith goes into all the details.
Holy City 2024 Nov 10
San Jose's very own utopia-slash-cult, taking a spot in 1919 just south of Los Gatos. Founded in San Francisco by a white supremacist misogynistic bigamist, the cult made money by masquerading as a roadside tourist trap on the route between San Jose and Santa Cruz, complete with carbonated liquor and peep shows. It was granted California's second ever radio station license, somehow getting the callsign KFQU, which became known for drifting away from its assigned frequency. By the time Highway 17's completion bypassed Holy City in 1940, their reputation for supporting Hitler's Nazi Germany had already set the place on the path towards destitution.

The land has since changed owners several times, but game respects game, and it is now owned by the Church of Scientology.
The surprisingly contentious boundaries of Santa Cruz County 2024 Nov 10
Linked is a recent blog post about the history of the borders of Santa Cruz County, since while we've always known where the city of Santa Cruz lies, we have not always agreed to what extent those smelly hippies should tame their surrounding chaos.
Zayante Tunnel 2024 Nov 10
In the 1880s, the Southern Pacific Railroad was built from Oakland to Santa Cruz. To reach through the Santa Cruz Mountains, tunnels were dug. One particular tunnel, a short 250-foot span in Zayante, isn't terribly remarkable. Except that, because it was bored through solid granite, when the railroad closed in 1940, the tunnel was deemed stable and sturdy, and the railroad left it open and intact.

And that way it stayed for twelve years, until, in the Cold War's escalating paranoia, a document retention interest purchased it and turned it into the Western States Atomic Vault Company – an underground vault not for people, but for documents. Eventually purchased by Iron Mountain, the facility is no longer in use, but this is a recent development, with day-to-day operation ending only in 2017.
Who was Henry Cowell? 2024 Nov 9
Henry Cowell, the "lime kiln baron" of Santa Cruz, isn't famous enough to merit a Wikipedia entry, but live in Santa Cruz and you cannot escape his name. It's on the parks, on the beaches, on the streets, on the university. Tight-lipped and litigious, Cowell was not a well-liked man in town. But perhaps with the benefit of hindsight, and the unearthing of a wealth of new information about him, his life can be reexamined and reconsidered.
Sacred Stones 2024 Nov 6
There is apparently, a little north of Chico, California, a Trappist Monastery. It's in a town called Vina, on land once claimed by Peter Lassen and later purchased by Leland Stanford who used it to create the largest vineyard. Their abbey built in a classic Cistercian style, with stones illegally imported from an abandoned 800-year old Spanish Cistercian monastery. William Randolph Hearst boonswaggled the stones out of Spain 99 years ago in order to build a swimming pool and bowling alley at his Wyntoon mansion. His plans were canceled however by the Great Depression, and in a deal to abate taxes he surrendered the stones to the City of San Francisco. The city held them in Golden Gate Park until the monks in 1995 negotiated with the city to use them to build their chapel, on the condition that the chapel be open the public. Securing funding only in 2004, with the help of Sierra Nevada Brewing, they used 1,300 stones (of the original 10,000) in the construction. Finally completed in 2018, the chapel is now, as they agreed, open to visitors.
Wikipedia's List of the Indian Wars in California's history is horrifying 2024 Oct 31
I grew up here in California, going to school in the regular public education system. It's been a long time, but I do not remember covering in much (or any) depth the Native Americans who lived in this state prior the wars and genocide which killed them off. Indians weren't completely forgotten -- our curriculum did at least acknowledge that the Indians were killed off, but we were told it was primarily through disease and the word "genocide" definitely was not used. I used to think "how nice it is to live in a place where there's never been a major war."

That was pretty naive of me, right? A recent quick glance through this list of California Indian Wars on Wikipedia left me noticing a stark trend, one which I feel should have been taught to us:
  1. White Americans move into California Indian lands and push them out so they can take those lands over for agriculture and mining.
  2. California Indians make what peace they can with their new white neighbors. It's not great, but it's not so bad. But one white neighbor in particular hates that Indians exist at all, and despite the relative peace, goes about raping and murdering Indians.
  3. The Indians get tired of being raped and murdered, and kill that asshole.
  4. The white townspeople hear of this, and don't care that the white man in question was an asshole and that the Indian's lethal revenge was justified. They only see race, and can abide no Indian killing any white man, so they step up the revenge and go and murder and burn entire Indian villages in reprisal.
  5. Repeat the massacres until there's almost no Indians left.
So many of the entries on the list follow this pattern, it's shocking. (Maybe not shocking if you're Indian and grew up knowing this.)
David Neagle 2024 Oct 27
David Neagle led one heck of a life. Raised amidst the California Gold Rush, he was a gunslinger and prospector and saloon owner and mining foreman and marshal and bodyguard and when he was arrested, his case went all the way to the US Supreme Court where a precedent-setting ruling is now named after him. He was deputized as sheriff in the town of Tombstone, Arizona and worked alongside the Earps keeping the law, but most interesting of all is his involvement with Justices David S. Terry and Stephen J. Field.

David S. Terry was a monumental asshole who somehow became one of California's earlier state supreme court Chief Justices (voted in during a special election). Although when his pro-Southern Slave State politics failed to earn him re-election he blamed his good friend the free-soil Senator from California David Broderick, and then resigned his place on the bench to kill Broderick in a duel. A generally violent man, Terry was known for threatening people with a bowie knife he kept on his person. After a stint fighting in the Civil War (on the wrong side) he returned to California as a lawyer and represented in court a woman named Sarah Althea Hill against her former lover, William Sharon.

William Sharon was another monumental asshole (perhaps even a bigger asshole than Terry) who was a banker and also briefly the US Senator from Nevada (although he rarely showed up to Senate). Sharon used his position as bank agent among the Comstock Lode prospectors to control their operations, loaning them money only to starve them out and forcing them into bankruptcy so that the bank could foreclose on the mineral rights. He also swindled his business partner William Ralston out of his fortune. The part relevant to this story, however, is that Sharon kept Sarah Althea Hill as a mistress.

Until he got bored of her, that is. Hill was significantly younger than him and something of a firecracker, having a reputation for threatening those who crossed her with a Colt revolver she kept in her purse. And so when Sharon dumped her, she filed a lawsuit claiming that he actually couldn't do that because they were secretly married.

And in that lawsuit she was represented by David S. Terry, the first asshole. Although Terry and Hill weren't just working together, they were also sleeping together, and soon got married.

Stephen J. Field was also a judge and also something of an asshole, although more known for being rude than for threatening people with knives of swindling them of their fortune. He was one of the judges in the Circuit Court that heard Hill's case, and the one who spoke the ruling that Hill's documents were forgeries. She did not care for this ruling, and screamed and reached for her gun. The marshals subdued her, and lawyer/husband Terry sprung to her defense with his bowie knife. David Neagle was there, however, shoving his gun in Terry's face and arresting the pair of them for contempt of court.

When Judge Field returned to California the next year, Neagle was assigned to protect him. Which proved fortuitous, as Field and Terry (along with Hill and Neagle) had the poor luck of catching the same train from LA to SF. When the inevitable happened and Terry confronted Field, presumably with some violent intent, Neagle proved himself once again quicker on the draw, shooting Terry in the heart and ear, killing him.

It was this act of self-defense which landed Neagle in jail, as at that time what Neagle did was not technically legal. But to nobody's surprise, when Neagle's case reached the Supreme Court, the judges were happy to rule that someone like Neagle defending their lives was, in fact, quite legal actually thank you very much (even with Field recusing himself from the vote).

Neagle's reputation now well-cemented, his later years were spent as a bodyguard for hire, working for various wealthy and powerful men. He finally passed away in 1925, at 78 years old in Oakland.
Nobles Emigrant Trail 2024 Oct 11
The Nobles Emigrant Trail was a key route into California during the Gold Rush times. The trail is now preserved by the Bureau of Land Management. The very well-produced short video on the BLM website about this trail, though, goes into more than just the history, but also how the BLM researches and identifies these trails, including consulting with the Native American authorities in the area who have their own history and opinion about these "emigrant" trails.
Atlas Fredonyer 2024 Oct 5
"Doctor" Atlas Fredonyer was a California pioneer who was the first to "discover" what is now known to be the northern limit of the Sierra Nevada mountains. It has unfortunately since been named after him: Fredonyer Pass, and recent attempts to change the name have failed. Because Fredonyer certainly does not deserve the respect such a naming would imply: he was most well known for raping his 15-year-old stepdaughter, although he plead that she was a whore and somehow got himself pardoned by Governor Leland Stanford.

While nobody is quite sure what Fredonyer was a "doctor" of, it is known that the citizens of Rooptown found their town's land claim had never been filed at the state office when they woke up to suddenly find themselves living in "Fredonyer City." This hornswaggling was corrected within a year, thankfully, when the town was officially renamed Susanville after Susan Roop, daughter of founder and first governor of Nevada Territory Isaac Roop, who mistakenly believed his town to be in Nevada (and staged a minor war over this belief).

The heavy-set Fredonyer would proceed to thankfully rid ourselves of his presence when he died around 48 years old from a failed surgery to remove a bottle he shoved up his ass.
The worst place in California? 2024 Sep 20
Is the tiny city of Trona, California the worst place in the state? Well, according to the description on Tobias Zielony's photography book about the place, it is "possibly the worst place in America, if not the world." Enter the link, a 2019 "Anomalous Phenomena Investigation" free Wordpress site article by Cindy Nunn talking about a possibly haunted home in the town. The haunting isn't terribly interesting on the surface – it's all circumspect speculation and 'bad energy' – but keep reading until you get to the article's post-script, because this is one of those situations where the post-script overwhelms the original text.

Apparently, after posting her Trona ghost-hunting piece, Nunn received a wealth of hate for her article's description of the town's destitution (although the blog's comments do not reflect this, maybe she deleted them?), and here in the post-script she responds by citing many, many source texts which don't pull punches in their disgust with Trona, and then she's wholesome enough to ask the haters for an apology. But these quotes she finds are amazingly bleak, describing a town ignored by law enforcement, with meth usage in abundance accompanied as it always is by petty theft and assault and burned buildings. And the cherry on top is that "dominating the landscape [is] the Mosaic Company chemical plant, which spew[s] noxious white smoke into the air. There [is] a sulfur-like aroma." Ahh, paradise.
Environmental Disaster in Los Angeles 2024 Sep 11
It is common knowledge in Northern California that LA is an toxic hellhole living embodiment of the apocalypse ocean's garbled vomit on the shore, but it turns out some of this is actually true. The Dominguez Channel running through all of LA's poorest and ethnic neighborhoods has been used as an industrial runoff open sewer for so long that it is literally poisoning everything near it. Not that once the waters of the channel reach the ocean they fare much better, seeing as the coastal waters have been used as an industrial dump site for everything from radioactive waste to live ammunition to raw poisonous sludge. Los Angeles, I'm yours.
Santa Rosae 2024 Sep 5
The four northernmost Channel Islands of California used to be, until about 7000 years ago when the sea levels rose, one bigger Channel Island which geologists have named Santa Rosae. One of the oldest human remains in North America has been found there. Something similar happened on Maui.

Nevermind I'm lying I forgot sea level rise is a hoax.
Esselen Tribal History 2024 Sep 4
Speaking of difficult-to-get-to-places, this is the website for a Native American people called the Esselen. They are from near the place we now call Big Sur, in the very remote Santa Lucia Mountains. Now landless, their ancestral homelands were never returned to them, even though they are out of reach of almost everyone.
Terminal Island: Touring The Edge of America 2024 Sep 4
As I have been lately complaining, Terminal Island on the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach is a difficult yet fascinating place to visit. So while it may be a trick for us to get there, we can always live vicariously, such as through this Center for Land Use Interpretation guided tour back in 2005.
Los Angeles Export Terminal 2024 Sep 4
In 1997 the city of Los Angeles spent considerable money building these two huge hemispheres out on the port to facilitate the export of coal. Just as they were completed, the coal export market collapsed, and then domes then of course became mired in a complex web of lawsuits. But here, on this page, in full 360-degree interactive panoramas, let us remember the time Los Angeles built on its coast a pair of gigantic breasts.
The Fake Resorts of Long Beach 2024 Aug 31
Off the coast of Long Beach are the strangest thing – artificial islands made to look like resorts.
The State Home at Eldridge 2024 Aug 30
On the topic of insane asylums, I don't believe in haunted buildings except here, at the home founded as "California Home for the Care and Training of Feeble Minded Children." They even called the town its in "Eldridge" – and you though Lovecraft was making this shit up. Buried in the woods, the place is positively eerie. Don't believe the lies on this historical society page, the real history of the facility is as full of abuse and horror as it looks, although it took until 2012 for the state to finally shut the place down. Jack London even wrote an escape story about inmates of this place.
Agnews East 2024 Aug 30
Santa Clara Valley famously was host to the "Agnews Development Center" – a euphemism for what they used to call insane asylums. The main "west" campus still stands, once a Sun Microsystems and now an Oracle campus. But less famous is the secondary "East" campus, which kept operating until 2011 and still exists, although only in ruin. It's abandoned and covered with graffiti, the last great palace of urban exploration in the South Bay.
The Nearby Wilderness: Seeking Solitude and Serenity in the Orestimba 2024 Aug 29
Another musing about the Orestimba, this one from a decade ago but no less poignant for the fact. The author is well familiar with the land:
The Orestimba is a wilderness in the fullest meaning of the word. As a longtime volunteer at Coe Park, I have visited the Orestimba Wilderness many times over the last 20 years. I have startled groups of tule elk, seen countless coyotes, bobcats, and golden eagles. In spring, when the hills are green and the creeks are running, I have crossed fields ablaze with shooting stars. I have watched the setting sun ignite the Rooster Comb, and a little later, I have lain down beneath a star show of stunning clarity. In most wilderness areas in the lower 48 states, there would probably be another camper a mile or two down the trail. Not here. In the Orestimba Wilderness, I’m not far from home, but the solitude is so complete, it’s almost unnerving.
Orestimba Wilderness 2024 Aug 29
I am a poor outdoorsman but I'm strangely drawn to this enormous block of wilderness just an arm's reach away from this congested, dense, metropolis in which I live. And so I thrive vicariously, through articles like this. Although I do not rule out one day wandering around the hills that I look at daily from my home.
When an Argentine pirate conquered Monterey 2024 Jul 28
In 1818, when Monterey was the capital of Spanish Alta California, an Argentine captain Hippolyte Bouchard (born in France, 1780) attacked the city and with a force of 200 armed men, conquered it and burned down the presidio. He didn't kill anyone in the process, however, and after six days grew bored and left, letting the Spanish return and resume doing their thing, I guess. Although Bouchard later abandoned Argentina in favor of Peru, turns out he is still considered something of an Argentine hero, and his whole story is steeped in nineteenth-century sailing shenanigans.
Armenians in Fresno 2024 Jul 26
Why does California, and Fresno in particular, have so many people of Armenian descent? It started with Hagop Seropian and his brothers in 1881 who found the climate similar to their homeland, and when their business was successful, more of their fellows followed. But, sadly, the population really expanded with people fleeing the Armenian Genocide committed by Turkey in 1914-15.
How did a hiker get lost for 10 days on a 1-mile creek surrounded by civilization? 2024 Jul 26
For a short moment this summer my home of Santa Cruz County was in the global spotlight. The reason: A man was miraculously rescued after being lost for 10 days in the forest, found alive and well. Big outlets like the New York Times, CNN, and the BBC jumped on the story, posting photos of the hiker covered in mud, overcome with emotion as he was reunited with his family.

And while I was relieved that he’d been found safe, in my opinion, all the media outlets were missing a key point. The story wasn’t adding up. ... Someone who doesn’t know the Santa Cruz Mountains well might read that story during their morning coffee, crack a small smile at the heart-warming news, and never think about it again. But, having grown up in the area, I was left scratching my head. How on Earth does a local who is, according to the NYT, 'an experienced backpacker who has traversed other rugged regions of the United States,' get lost for 10 days?
Let's do it 2024 Jun 26
There's a town in the timber country of far northern California called "Loleta." Why name a town after a Nabokov book about a ... you know? Well, it's not. That book wasn't published until 1955, whereas this town was named in 1893. However, the name is still bad. Because it turns out that... well, read it direct from the source (Ellen Golla, in a 2007 letter to the editor of Humboldt County's Times-Standard):
"In 1893, the residents of what was then known as Swauger's Station decided to change the town's name. Mrs. Rufus F. Herrick consulted a Wiyot elder to find an appropriate indigenous appellation. The Indians actually called it katawólo 't.

A joke was played on Mrs. Herrick. The elderly gentleman told her that it was hó wiwItak. This does not translate as 'beautiful place at the end of the river,' but rather 'Let's have intercourse!'

She interpreted the last part of the phrase, in baby-talk fashion, as Loleta. And thus she suggested 'Loleta' to the residents of the town, which they accepted."
Magic Edge, Inc. 2024 May 11
I visited Magic Edge when I was an adolescent. It was a motion flight simulator in Palo Alto where you could pretend to dogfight against other players in modern but high-tech fighter jets. While I don't see many references anymore to this Silicon Valley Mountain View 90s anomaly, I recently read a book where the author retold his experience in the simulator. And so I did some searching online, finding not much, but did stumble upon this, a short recollection from someone who worked there, along with some photos and videos.
Glendenning Barn 2024 May 9
The Apple spaceship campus in Cupertino is the cutting edge of private, hyper-modern, secretive technology company campuses covered in the the most advanced, updated buildings money could buy, and one old barn. Why one old barn? Turns out, it was less of a pain in the ass to just let it continue to exist and use it for its original function.
Relics of the Ancients 2024 Mar 13
Linked is a website which maps and collects information about the "mysterious" stone structures which line California, the most known of which are the East Bay Walls. They are mysterious in that their builders are unknown and predate any written or oral histories. While entirely less famous than Stonehenge, California it turns out does have its own collection of cairns and other megalithic structure.
San Jose in 1975 and 2006 2024 Jan 28
A collection of photos of downtown San Jose streets shot in 1975 by city staff, and updated shot 31 years later in 2006. Even though it's been another 18 years since 2006, the changes since 2006 are minimal. I may find the gumption to go do an update, though.
Corralitos California History 2024 Jan 26
This tiny homegrown website has an enormous wealth of information about Corralitos, California, a small town wedged into the northern part of the Monterey Bay between Santa Cruz and Watsonville. Corralitos is unincorporated, rural, and neither heavily populated nor touristed, but here on this internet of ours is evidence that it is loved.
This Journalist Recreated Gran Turismo Photos in Real Life and Can’t Tell the Difference 2024 Jan 26
This is an interesting take because while the headline claims the article's about photography, it's not. The author gets pensive about the ever-changing city and how different times of day make downtown Los Angeles into a completely different beast. It's a fascinating piece, really.
Bay Area paint giant Kelly-Moore shuts down, closes every store 2024 Jan 16
After 78 years, this paint company is closing every store. I didn't realize they were a local company, but it's sad whenever any enterprise fails. To be fair, though, Kelly-Moore is failing because they are overwhelmed with asbestos lawsuits, which even though the stopped using in 1981, they say has continued to cost the company to the total of over $600m, with another $170m estimated still due in the future. Interestingly, the California State Rock is serpentine, a recognition it earned due to the asbestos it contains and how valuable it was back before asbestos was a dirty word.
USS Thompson (DD-305) 2024 Jan 3
There's a shipwreck in the South Bay? How have I never known this?

Quoth Jan Lettens writing in 2009:
After her sale, she served as a floating restaurant in lower San Francisco Bay during the depression years of the 1930s. In February 1944, the Navy repurchased the ship and partly sank her in the mud flats of San Francisco Bay, south of the San Mateo Bridge, where Army and Navy aircraft carried out bombing runs with dummy bombs. Portions of the wreck remain above the waterline to this day. She is commonly referred to as the 'South Bay Wreck' and many tide tables reference her as a reference.

2023

Tamienne Monument 2023 Dec 31
Down in the southern reaches of San Jose, someone has installed a plaque in the ground, the words "Santa Clara Valley" written out, overlayed with the same but converted into the binary bytes for the ASCII characters. It is not known who created this, but celebrating the mixing of our area's human history with modern tech heritage seems to be the clear interpretation.
A Cool Guide for San Jose 2023 Dec 29
A local micro-marketing firm has created a bunch of neighborhood guides for San Jose, written by real humans and not LLM garbanzo beans. How cool is that? Is it perfect? No, but it's published, which is more than I can say the time I bought sannozay.com and did nothing with it.
Berkeley's famed communal hot tub 2023 Sep 22
I've lived in the (South) Bay Area my whole life and I've never even heard hint of such a thing existing. But it sounds fascinating, a lingering hold-out from hippie culture.
Cultural History: Portola Redwoods 2023 Aug 29
One final posting in this run, this one from the official State Parks website on the history of Portola Redwoods. There's nothing new here about Iverson or Page, but it does confirm many of the same details as the other links.
The Long and Winding Road 2023 Aug 29
This 1998 article in Palo Alto Weekly (a small local newspaper) celebrating Page Mill Road contains another snippet, adding some more color to this story I'm stumbling my way into. The article is short, but it teaches us that "Page Mill is one of the oldest thoroughfares in the area. It was carved out in the early 1860s as a route for lumber harvested in the nearby hills. The main user at the time was William Page, a New York-born businessman who owned timberland in the Pescadero area and a large mill near California Avenue, in what was then the settlement of Mayfield. As late as 1918, people remember Page's horse-drawn wagon lumbering over the hills along Page Mill, bells attached to animals' harnesses to warn travelers of their approach along the steep and narrow road."
William Page - Lumberman 2023 Aug 29
Here's an 1882 biography of William Page (the namesake of Page Mill Road), written when he was still living and working in the community. In it we learn that
In 1854 he [...] retraced his footsteps to San Mateo county, and opened a store at Searsville, which he conducted for thirteen years. In 1878 he came to Mayfield where he has since resided, being now engaged in the lumber business. He has an interest in a large tract of timber land in the southern portion of San Mateo county, also a half interest in a steam sawmill, with a capacity of fifteen thousand feet in the twelve hours.
Christian Iverson and William Page 2023 Aug 29
Buried in this article about a 2012 effort to save some big old redwoods is this fascinating nugget of local history expanding on the story of Christian Iverson, snippets that aren't sourced but which I can find scant other account of online. The juicy bits are about halfway through the article, but I'll copy/paste them here for posterity:
Iverson split redwood shakes and shingles for a living and, in the 1880s, served as a bodyguard for the wife of Capt. Harry Love, a California ranger who supposedly captured and beheaded the famous outlaw Joaquin Murrieta. One day Love flew into a jealous rage and opened fire on his wife and her protector, only to be shot to death by Iverson.

In 1889, Iverson sold his property to William Page, who had built the first of two sawmills along Peters Creek, which was named after another early immigrant named Jean Peter, who ran a dairy and grew hay and grain.

Page, who also operated a general store and served on the San Mateo County Board of Supervisors, used the lumber to make shingles. He later built a logging road that became known as Page Mill Road. The road, which still exists, was used to transport lumber to Palo Alto.
Christian Iverson, California Pioneer 2023 Aug 29
Here's a fascinating little bit of early Europeans in California history, something I've never come across before. It regards a Danish settler who maybe rode for the Pony Express, lived in a cabin in the Santa Cruz mountains, and slept with the sheriff of Santa Clara's wife. What do you get for living like this? They named a trail after him in Portola Redwoods State Park.
East Bay Hill People 2023 May 4
The site description says it best: "Explore the East Bay Hills of the San Francisco Bay Area and discover a world inhabited by our local Native Americans for over 10,000 years. Many sites are virtually untouched since missionization, manslaughter and European diseases drove these people from their ancestral homelands just over 200 years ago. Respect their history."